Wandering in Donam Dong (돈암동)

Since I'm at my new school, I've been exploring a couple of new areas near my school. One of these areas in Donam Dong, which is a part of a long walk I take from my school to central Seoul.

Walking through Jeongneung into Donam I saw a random temple. Located close to Gireum station exit 3, Bongkuksa (봉국사) is far from a must see in Korea, but if you are in the neighborhood you could check it out. It isn't far away from the road to be quiet, but the trees sure are beautiful.

Festival going on

Bell at the entrance

I then continued my wander through hill after hill in Donam dong. Seriously, I don't want to walk the same route everyday, but is walking along the subway line the only way to get from northern Seoul to the center without climbing hill after hill? One thing I noticed was an excessive number of new apartment buildings. I've complained about this before, but Seoul's awesomeness is a bit marred by these huge complexes that are all designed in the same way. Donam had some very cute and unique buildings. Like this:

This isn't the best example, but you get my point

Something about villas and outdoor staircases really does it for me. They are unique and they seem so cozy. Of course, I can see why someone wants a more modern apartment building with all the newest amenities. It is convenient, comfortable, and easy to show off to your neighbors. However, I think it is only a matter of time that the elites realize that a re-modeled villa could give the comforts of modern living with much more pleasing aesthetics. I wish this realization would happen sooner than later; on this walk in Donam, I saw what seemed to be a poorer neighborhood entirely demolished.

Looks more like post-war Korea than modern Seoul

I'm sure next time I walk through Donam this will be replaced by some fancy apartment building with a ridiculous name (like Human Ville ㅋ ㅋ ). But of course when you see this destruction you wonder who used to live here, whether or not they were able to leave by their own volition, how much money they were paid, and how much big corporations are going to make off their new land. Gangnam may have been impressive in its ability to turn from farm land to a sprawling metropolis in just 30 years, but northern Seoul has a hell of a lot more character, and doesn't need any more huge apartment complexes. I imagine there are local community organizers trying to preserve the local character, so I wish them the best of luck. 

New Neighborhood: Jeongneung-dong (정릉)

One thing I love about Seoul is the never-ending sense of discovery. It is hard to say you really know this city when there are so many neighborhoods and districts. Many of these areas aren't even connected to the incredibly expansive Seoul metro system. My new school is in Jeongneung, and even though it is somewhat far from my home, I think I'll love wandering around this neighborhood everyday after school.

The above-pictured park leads up to my school. As you can see, there are huge mountains in the background. From my office window, I have a great view of nature. It feels like I'm out in the countryside, but I'm still in central Seoul (well, northern Central Seoul).

Wandering around Jeongneung, you definitely see Seoul's ubiquitous high rises that make a neighborhood kind of 'meh'. In a city that is still as rapidly developing as Seoul, they are kind of unavoidable. I hope, however, that citizens start appreciating architecture and design before everything just becomes row after row of convenience and efficiency.

Efficient? Yes. Beautiful? Sometimes

Jeongneung still has a lot of Seongbuk charm, however. The area is quite hilly, and there are a lot of cute staircases, hidden restaurants, and markets. Jeongneung market, while not by any stretch of the imagination jaw-dropping, has a cute character that is complimented with the stream running by.

Entrance to Jeongneung Market

Jeongneung's Stream

Older people were bathing in the stream, drinking soju, and just enjoying the slightly cooler temperature near the water.

But what I like most about this neighborhood is something you can't really find in southern Seoul. Old rickety houses with personality. Like this two floor house connected by a rickety staircase:

Maybe the heating isn't the greatest, but it certainly has character

Of course, Jeongneung has all the amenties you'd expect from Seoul. Lots of coffee shops, pizza chains, Daisos and officetels. But it also has unique antique shops, hidden restaurants for Korean food junkies, and stairwells that lead to new areas waiting to be discovered. It also is home to the Josun-era Jeongneung tomb as well as a couple of temples. I have yet to visit these historical site, but I'm sure I will within the coming months.

To get to Jeongneung, take line 4 to Gireum station (길음). Outside of exit 2 to the right you will see various buses. Many of them go into Jeongneung, including 143 and 1114. Hop off when something looks interesting and wander around. I think you'll enjoy what you find. I'm sure I have a lot more to see.