Inwangsan (인왕산) The Mountain of the Generous King

Four of us climbed Inwangsan on Saturday. This is another portion of the Seoul fortress wall, but not nearly as well marked and with much less guards protecting the Blue House. We started out near Dongnimmun Station and made our way east to Buam dong. The hike only took about an hour and a half. Although we were only about 330 meters up, we had some great views of the city. This blog post is mainly just to share this nice panorama.

Heading out of exit 2 of Dongnimmun station (독립문) you take your first left and wind up along tons of apartment complexes. Eventually, you'll find the trail, but it is not very well marked so good luck. Near the foot of the Dongnimmun side, there was a very atmospheric temple. We were kind of in a hiking hurry, so I didn't get any pictures. Lame. But I did get a decent pic of the wall...

Bukaksan: Northern route of the Seoul Fortress Wall

On the 6th of June (Memorial Day), C and I went to hike part of the Seoul Fortress Wall trail. There are four sections to this trail, and we took on the northern section that starts near Hansung station and ends up at Changuimun in Buamdong. This section goes through some peaks on Bukak mountain and it quite the nice walk. Starting from the east, you meander up against the wall until you reach a checkpoint where you have to show your passport or registration card. This is to stop would-be-assassins, as the Blue House is at the southern foot of Bukak mountain, so they need to be careful who they let in. This also means that there are only certain places where you are allowed to take pictures, so my pictures aren't the most amazing. All of the great views were in no-picture zones. Sad face.

You can see the wall!

Changuimun

If you are going to do this route, make sure you go east to west! If you take it west to east, you will have a ton of stairs, whereas the easterly route gives you some gentle inclines. The whole hike takes about two hours. To get to the trail, head out of Hansung station exit 5.  The Korea Tourism Organization provided this lovely map to get you to the fortress:

Unhyeongung

Last week I was let out of school early for Buddha's birthday, so I decided to visit Unhyeongung (운현궁) Palace in central Seoul. Although it isn't one of Seoul's true five palaces, it was the housing of Prince Regent Daewon-gun who ruled the Joseon dynasty during the 19th century. After paying 1000 won, I entered into the courtyard.

You can see how the city is right outside the palace's walls

There were four main buildings: Norakdang, Noandang, Irodang and Sujiksa. Honestly, they all looked kind of the same. Norakdang and Irodang were residences for women, while the guys would hang out at Noandang. Sujiksa would house the servants and guards.

Noandang

Norakdang

Irodang

 Irodang was my favorite building because of the elevated room. So, I took a selca that turned out surprisingly well.

For more information about Unhyeongung, check out the Visit Korea website. Here are the websites directions:

Directions

Anguk Station (Seoul Subway Line 3) Exit 4 50m from station Jongno 3-ga Station (Seoul Subway Line 5) Exit 4 Go 300m towards Anguk Station

Jeongneung Tomb

On Wednesday, May 15th I was let out of school early for the long weekend (thank you Buddha!). As most of my friends needed to work, I ventured out alone to Jeongneung (정릉) which is a tomb close to my workplace. Along with other Joseon dynasty tombs, it is  a UNECO world heritage site. Score.

 After following a bunch of signs up and down hills, I finally found the entrance to Jeongneung. I paid a small entrance fee (1,000 won), grabbed a map, and walked around. As it was a Wednesday afternoon, there were few people in the park: mostly ajjumas and ajjeoshis. A quick walk brought me to the tomb. Well, within sight of the tomb.

As you can see, the tomb is at top of the hill. I saw no way to get up to the tomb, so I imagine it isn't possible to get a close look. The tomb houses Queen Consort Sindeok, who was the second wife of King Taejo (the founder of the Joseon dynasty). Her place in history is a bit interesting, so to learn more, check out the Korean Cultural Heritage website for details.

I imagine the surrounding vicinity rather than the tomb itself gives reason for the locals to visit. Smack dab in a very apartment-heavy neighborhood is a very green and walkable area. One walking course goes around Jeongneung's land, and takes about thirty minutes.  If it was a little closer to my school, I would visit often to go for jogs. Peaceful, if a bit hilly, Jeongneung can be seen in about an hour.

Jeongneung was a bit difficult to find... here are the directions from Visit Korea:

Directions

In front of exit 6 of Sungshin Women's University station (Donam station / Seoul Subway Line 4), take city bus No. 1012, 1014, or 1212 and get off at Arirang Market. Walk 5-10 min. Operating Hours 6:00-18:30 (Mar-Oct) / 6:00-17:30 (Nov-Feb) Yeonsangunmyo 09:00~18:00

Jongmyo Shrine

Last week, we were let out of school early for Parent's Day. To celebrate, I went downtown to see Jongmyo Shrine before my Korean class. Earlier this year, I saw Dongmyo, but Jongmyo is much more impressive. Located in central Seoul (right next to Jongno 3 Ga), I feel kind of silly for never having visited the shrine. Especially since it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Jongmyo was commissioned by King Taejo (the founder of the Joseon dynasty) and is the shrine for all of the past kings and queens (plus some other honored guests). I almost didn't go last week because there weren't any English tours available, but I decided to suck it up and do a tour in Korean.

My Korean level is decent (I'm starting the advanced level at the Korea Foundation next week!), but historical words are hard. I probably understood some 80% of the words, but all of the important ones were lost. Since some of these words were difficult for Koreans as well, the tour guide did explain them quite well. For example, she started the tour by explaining the word Jongmyo (종묘) as there is confusion over the difference between a tomb and a shrine. 종 means ancestral and 묘 is normally a place to do ancestral rites. Nobody is buried at Jongmyo.

The first building we looked at (behind the tour guide in the picture above) was Hyangdaecheong. This building acted as storage and a waiting room for those coming to the shrine.

We walked along a road that had an elevated strip in the middle. This elevated strip was for the king, while the strips on the left and the right were for other high-ranking officials (rankings I didn't know). Women weren't allowed to perform the ancestral rites (제사), but a queen could have her tablet (신실) enshrined after her death. Equality after death.   

 Next, we saw Jaegung. Here, the king and crown prince would prepare before doing the rites. There was a building for the king, a building for the crown prince, and a bathing facility. The picture below is the king's room (Eojaesil).

After walking through Jaegung, we stopped in front of Jeonsacheong, where the food was prepared. I had 제사밥 a while back in Andong, and it was delicious, in a very plain way. 냠냠.

The next building was the most impressive: Jeongjeon. Jeongjeon is te main hall of Jongmyo. While it started off as a small shrine, when a king or queen died, a new hall was added. This continued until there were 19 chambers (and had to be stopped or it would rival the size of China's royal shrine... I think).  

Under King Sejong, a second shrine, Yeongnyeongjeon, was built to accommodate more tablets. As you can see in the picture below, there are four shrines with a raised roof. These shrines house King Taejo's ancestors.

If you want to visit Jongmyo, the English tours are at 10, 12, 2, and 4pm (but closed on Tuesdays). On Saturdays, you can visit the shrine without a guided tour. With the English booklet, that might be the best way to enjoy the shrine. The entrance fee is 1,000 won.

Seoul Bucket List

I've accepted the admission offer for UC San Diego, so unless I get a full-funded scholarship to a school in Korea (and decide a program in Seoul would be better), I'll be leaving Korea on August 24th. I LOVE Seoul. I'm going to miss it a tons. So I've decided to be quite pro-active during my last days. I'll be trying to do something interesting/new/unexpected everyday until the 24th (oh, and re-visiting favorites). Although I want this to be a lot of randomly cool things, there are some things I have on my bucket list. When I've seen these things, I'll write a post on this blog or over at my Korean diary. This list is by no means exhaustive and there is a good chance I'll add to it as I go along.

Achasan: Very simple mountain that can be done on any given afternoon.

Andong Jjimdalk: This used to be one of my favorite dishes my first year in Korea. I haven't eaten it since 2012! (Ate it with Cali and Catie on May 14th near Korea University).

Banpo Bridge fountain: I've never seen the rainbow fountain! And I wanted to visit this before I even came to Seoul!?! I imagine I'll be disappointed.

Bugaksan fortress wall: The mountain behind the Blue House has a pretty cool wall. But I need my passport! (Thursday, June 6th)

Bukhansan: While I've climbed this peak before, I've never reached the top. Lazy me. Part of this mountain is literally at the back door of my school.

Cheonho Dong Jjukkumi Street: On one of these upcoming hot summer days, I want to cool down with spicy baby octupus

Chimaek: I hardly ever have chicken and beer. This should change! (We had some Chimaek in Gunsan on May 17th, 2013)

Chu-eo tang in Pyeonchang dong: One of the oldest restaurants in Korea is on one of my jogging routes. And I love this eel soup!

Coex: I've never really explored Coex. I've only been to a couple of exhibition halls in the building. 

Dobongsan: I'm going to be doing this mountain on the 26th of May with my Korean class. As long as I wake up on time. Update: I didn't wake up on time. Must do later...

Everland: I kind of feel like I should go to Everland but also won't be completely upset if I don't make it.

Garak Wholesale Food Market: I love food and markets! Woot!

Gwanaksan: Nice big mountain in southern Seoul. 5/5/2013

Han River Cruise: Though it isn't the nicest river, I still want to take a cruise on a sunny day.

Hamilton Hotel Pool: I wanna soak in the sun with the fabulous

Hwagyesa: This temple was so near Suyu but I never went. Because I'm stupid. (August 13th, 2013)

Hwangudan Altar: This altar is in a garden in the Westin Chosun hotel. Looks really cool.

Imo chip: I must visit my auntie and her great restaurant in Itaewon again. And again. And again.

Inwangsan: The large mountain in western Seoul.

Jeongneung: The tombs near my school are just a hop and skip away. I visited them on 5/15/2013.  

Jongmyo Shrine: I visited Jongmyo on 5/8/2013. Great time. Highly recommended.

Jogyesa: I walk around Jongno all the time in Seoul, but I've never been to Jogyesa. And my family has! 헐.

Kimchi Field Museum: Enough said. 

Korea Furniture Museum: Looks pretty fantastic. The building housing the furniture is beautiful too.

Korean War Memorial Museum: Just minutes from my house and I've heard that it is a great museum.

Magpie Brewery: Located in my neighborhood. I've heard they have really great beer. (Visited in June for an awesome event for the season finale of Game of Throne).

Majang Korean BBQ Street: Meat street!

Namhansanseong: A fortress at the top of Namhan mountain from the Joseon period.

National Museum of Korea: I've been here for twenty minutes. I should go for a bit longer... (Visited August 17th)

Noryangjin Fish Market: Sure, I've been here before. But I want more fish! 

Ojang-dong Naengmyeon: Apparently they have the best Naengmyeon. AND I LOVE NAENGMYEON! *Update* I went there on 5/7/2013, and yes. It is amazing. I will be back!

Random buses: C and I jumped on random buses before to enjoy the destination. We need more of that in our lives.

Samsung Museum of Art: Ten thousand won has always looked like such an expensive entrance fee for a museum, but that is just me being stupid.

Sarangchae at Cheongwadae: I like political history, and this museum focuses on the presidents of Korea and Seoul history. Nice.

Seokchondong Tombs: Never even heard of these before, but..

Seoul Museum of Chicken Art: I forgot this existed. I wanna see it!

Seoul Museum of History: I love Seoul and this museum is free.

Sillim's Sundae Town: Yum yum yum.

Sindang Ddeokbokki: Although I once hated ddeokbokki, I now crave it. Especially Sindang's ddeokbokki.

Suyu Dalkgalbi: Best. Dalkgalbi. Ever. (Ate some more for Magaly's going away dinner on June 16th. Definitely still the best).

Suyu Toast: Best. Toast. Ever. Yum. This is still the best.

Time Square in Yeongdeungpo: A bit of shopping! 

TUM: SK Telekom's Ubiquitous Museum. A museum about future technologies. 

Unhyeungung Palace: Not really a palace, but a rich person's house from the Joseon dynasty. Saw it on 5/16/2013

Seoulcation

Japan (which I haven't yet mentioned on this blog...) robbed me of all my money so last week I had a stay-in-Seoul vacation. It was nice with some much needed sleep. A lot of it. I slept in past noon on two days. Crazy.

As I was short on funds I couldn't do too many crazy fun things. I had some sane fun instead.

Friday was sloppy joe's at the home. Very American. Very delicious.

My grandmother had a very simple recipe: one pound of beef, one can of chicken gumbo soup, a tablespoon or two of ketchup and a bit of mustard. Simple, easy, sloppy.
I also saw Mr. Bacon a couple of times. That was pretty great. Who wouldn't love this face? He was, um, enjoying kissing people Saturday night at our house party. That was quite the nice house party... I particularly enjoyed two-stepping at The Grand Ole Opry.

Sunday was fun. It started with a grand breakfast and then a long walk over Namsan and around Sukmyeong University. I was with Hyeonsu and we strolled around in Hyochang Park. We kind of just stumbled upon the park, which hosts The Grave for the Three Martyrs. Check out wikipedia again for info on the park.
Monday was a lazy day. I saw Cloud Atlas (good film), ate pork cutlet (gross), and lazed around (kind of fun). Yay Monday!
Tuesday was a bit more active, but still relatively static for me. After finishing up an application for a scholarship (good luck, Mark!), I met up with Katrina in HBC for some Moroccan sandwiches. That's right. Moroccan sandwich store is open again! Yum yum yum!
On Wednesday, C and I took a walk across the city for exercise (and to save 1100 won???). We were walking by Dongmyo, so we decided to take a peek.

Old + New = Seoul

Dongmyo is a shrine built in 1601 in memory of a 3rd century Chinese military commander. It's nothing terribly exciting, but I love the way it snuck up on our walk. You can read more about the shrine on wikipedia.

Thursday was another day of walking, this time to Dongdaemun. C and I tried a new route and stumbled upon an independence monument on the northern side of Namsan (near Dongguk University Station on line 3). Korea declared independence from Japan on March 1st, 1919 during the aptly named March 1st Movement. The monument wasn't the ugliest thing I've ever seen... (litotes)

A little past the monument is a statue of Yu Gwan Sun. Gwan Sun was a freedom fighter and martyr who fought for Korean independence under Japanese annexation and one of the most famous female historical figures in Korea.

After C and I found some new Uzbek restaurants (what what?) we continued on our way to Dongdaemun. And what did we find but Bang-san-jong-hap Market. Located across the street from the much more famous Gwangjang Market, Bang-san-jong-hap has a huge area devoted to all things baking. Ingredients, measuring cups, bowls, paper cups, etc. Really quite extensive.

The air in Seoul has been a bit dirty lately. But it gives us nice sunsets!

 C headed home and I met up with Julie and Sanggun for jeon (fried everythings) and shopping. I didn't see much that I liked, but did pick up a bow tie. Bow ties may be my new thing.

On Friday, some of us braved the cold to see the Seodaemun Prison History Museum. I have wanted to go to this museum since 2009, but always put it off. I'm glad I finally went. It was a pretty well organized museum with a decent amount of English. The brick buildings were beautiful and it is a shame they have seen such abuses of human rights. Yu Gwan Sun, who I mentioned earlier in this post, was imprisoned in Seodaemun before her execution.

The one criticism I have is that the museum focused pretty much entirely on the Japanese occupation. I would have been curious to learn about the history of the museum during South Korea's dictatorships (when democratic activists and communists were locked up instead of freedom fighters). Other than that flaw, I think the museum is a must visit for any Seoul resident.

In the evening, we had pies. Delicious pies! South African pies at Braii Republic. C and I will be going to a new restaurant in our hood every paycheck. This was a good first choice!

 Do you like your pies?

Yes we do!

Friday evening was an impromptu mini house party. We played a charades/taboo game, which was quite fun. Even though Maggy turned crazy.

Saturday... Korean class and Korean class. A really long die. I studied, which was good, and then studied some more. However, during Korean class number two we made makkeoli cocktails. Can you imagine drinking alcohol in a language class in the states? I don't think so!

 In the evening, we went to Moon Night and danced the night away. My new favorite band played (The Studs Lonigan Experience).

Bagaly being pro

So how do you finish off a Seoulcation? Waffles and chicken at Original Pancake Story. Yum. Happy Sunday!

It was a pretty cheap vacation and quite fun. My next few weeks are going to be tight money-wise, however, because C and I booked tickets to ... Malaysia and the Philippine! WOOOOOT! I'll be warm in February.

Full Weekend

It is already Wednesday! So before the new weekend starts (and I forget all that transpired this past weekend) I'm gonna write really quickly about the weekend of the 13th and 14th. The Itaewon Global Festival was taking place, so I spent a lot of my weekend in my neighborhood eating delicious food and taking some not so great photos (I need a new camera). While the festival had stuff going on other than food (including concerts and information booths), I just focused in on trying some goodies. Yum yum. It also was a great time to hang out with friends.

Since I live in HBC, it isn't too difficult for me to try new foods. However, a lot of foreign restaurants are rather expensive, especially compared to their Korean counterparts, so it was nice to try smaller portions at cheaper prices. The crowds were massive (especially Saturday night) and mostly Korean. Itaewon has been becoming increasingly popular with Koreans and really is definitely shaping up to be a nice area of the city with really good bars and restaurants (Oh how I love you Vatos Tacos). Despite the increasing popularity of Itaewon, during the festival I definitely saw way more Koreans than usual, including many families and children.

Of course the best time to do some welding is at a festival

 The rest of the weekend was spent enjoying the weather. Fall is the best season in Korea, and there is no excuse to stay in your house on these amazing days. Saturday evening was spent on the Han River, where Chris and Josh played the guitar while we all sang along.

With such great weather, we've decided to make it a point to visit new areas of Seoul. Sunday brought us to Seoul Children's Grand Park, which, surprisingly, I had never been to before. There were some cool animals (I loved the kangaroos) but the cages left a bit to be desired. Zoos are harder to enjoy when you spend half the time wondering if their cage is big enough. 

^^

So that was the weekend! Better head back to work.